Thursday, March 4, 2010

Whirlwind Tour: Saigon Day 2

Day 2 and our last full day in Saigon before heading north to visit family. In a crazy city like Saigon with streets that look like the above image, mapping out your plan of attack is essential if you hope to see and do everything you want before the heat and chaos of the city hits you and all you want to do is sip iced coffee drinks in some hip coffee shop with air conditioning. A few things we mapped out for the day was to pickup our new prescription filled sunglasses.

Get some streetside grub.

Pick up some cheap fabric.

Get some fresh fruit.

Visit the vendors at Ben Thanh Market.

Get a banh mi sandwich.

and something refreshing to drink.

Walk around admiring Saigon's mish mash architecture.

All the while trying not to look like tourists while looking for deals on liquor to present as gifts to our many uncles.
Evenutally we succumbed to the heat and constant noise and decided to pull up to some folding lounge chairs for a much needed beer break.
That night we met up with a crazy group of spontaneous Le Clan for some of the City's finest Chinese food.It should be noted when a hungry group of 15 are seated around a table fitted with a large lazy susan in the middle, not many pictures of food will be taken. I did manage to capture this crab puff image, only after I looked up and the plate was empty along with the two steamer tray of dim sum items and stir fried noodles. Man, that was some serious pork shu mai and shrimp har gao.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Saigon's Tet Flower Markets

We haven't ever celebrated Tet Lunar New Year in Vietnam and it's been over 35 years since my family has also, so we decided to make this year the first year we're back home for the largest celebration in Vietnam.

Much like how Europe is empty the month of August due to everyone taking advantage of the 6-8 weeks average vacation time, Saigon is pretty empty, but mostly it's empty of people. The shops and restaurants are still open, which isn't really the case in the other cities or more rural areas in Vietnam, where people will wait for a lucky or auspicious day to begin conducting business again in the new year. The Vietnamese believe the first of anything in the new year will be significant in how the rest of the year will be. What the first sale is like and what the first person to set foot in your home is like. So everyone's homes we visited had large blooming flowers set right at the front of their houses. New Blooms = New Energy.Since we were in Saigon just before actual new year's eve/day every park area was filled with blooming flowers.We heard families save all year for the flower markets. Flowers do breath in new life and every year Ba would play the game of cutting down bare branches in the dead of winter and force them to bloom in hopes they open up right on New Year's Day.

Unlike the crazy bedazzled spectacle of over-the-top Christmas displays and decorations Saigon seems to love, Tet decorations were much tamer, almost artful.

There's also a little bit of tacky.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Whirlwind Tour: Saigon Day 1

A little over a year ago we spent 47 days in the country of Vietnam, with the majority of our time spent in Saigon. Fast forward to 2010 Tet celebration and we find ourselves with a little over 3 days in this city, 2 days in the beginning and 1 day at the end. Needless to say we didn't waste anytime getting up early the next morning and heading straight out. But not before indulging in the free hotel breakfast of pho.

The hotel cook couldn't praise her pho making skills enough, between us the chicken pho rocked and the beef pho was awful. Surprisingly the hotel pho was the only time we partook in this well known Vietnamese treasure. Why? Because there is so much good food in Vietnam and in Saigon it's all about the international foods as well as the traditional Vietnamese dishes.

There are two items we dream about when we think of Saigon, sushi and Donner kababs. Strange, we know. Granted we know both items aren't the best we will have in our lives, but at SE Asian prices, it's as good, if not better than what we can get back home in the states for pennies on the dollar. We strolled the streets of Saigon heading back to our favorite shops and soaking in the New Year's Tet street decorations and markets set up especially for Tet.

Sadly we found a few of our favorite places had either relocated or went out of business completely. We had a list of places we wanted to visit such as the famous lunch lady seen on Anthony Bourdaine's show No Reservations and Lon Suong Beer Hall, one of Time Magazine's top beer halls in the world. But with so little time we had to make heartbreaking decisions on what to cut out. And sushi was not one of them.

Yes, we did take a lot of heat for seeking out sushi in Vietnam, but let us put this in relative terms. The average cost of a chirashi bowl back home is around $12-$14. Just a bowl of sushi rice and usually chef's choice cuts of fish. Well that same bowl of sushi costs around $4 in Saigon, with the selection and quality of fish and sushi rice to be as good, if not better than what we can find at home. Plus check out the bento lunches for around $5. Catching our drift now?

The top picture is of a cold soba noodle bento box (check out how the noodles are on a bed of ice) along with tempura, triangular rice with pickled ginger, dashi and accompaniments. The bottom image of the dashi based soba with greens and tempura bits on the side was HUGE! Sushi restaurants are everywhere in Saigon's main shopping districts, our favorite revolving sushi place was gone, but we were able to find this one on Nguyen Du Street who served up a mean okonomiyaki or Japanese pizza - Hiroshima Style, layered not mixed and with a layer of raman noodles - filling and delicious.While traveling in Japan we had fortuitously come upon an outdoor okonomiyaki vendor and we were so blown away by this "Japanese Pizza" we even blogged about it here. The version we had in Osaka is considered Kansai or Osaka style with no noodles, with the cabbage, flour, eggs, etc. mixed and not layered. This lunch sustained us for the rest of the afternoon.

Being Tet New Year the shopping district was quiet with many shops closed for the New Year, but we managed to take a peak in handbag retailer Ipanema, Art Book, Creations Silk Clothers and the Tax Department. As the sun went down we decided we were still full from our sushi lunch, but could use a refreshing drink. Hhhhmmmm, we knew just the place - a little roof top bar at the Rex Hotel, the scene of a recent proposal....We indulged in pricey drinks on the breezy roof top bar, but hey we were celebrating our first day back in Saigon!We decided to split an order of egg rolls and they came toothpicked to a hollowed out pineapple with a flame at the base, very interesting. We later found this pineapple flame creation used as an air-fresher/mood lighting in a cafe bathroom, funny stuff.Not quite hungry, but definitely not ready to call it a night, we headed out into the festive streets below and found the most random set of vendors selling New Years themed items.We decided to head over the Opera House and check out a bar in the basement of the Opera House called Q Bar, a trendy night club DJ Saigon was hoping to be able to spin some tunes. But the owners were kind of tools and we ended up paying for more spendy drinks.It was getting late and we were now beginning to get our appetites back, so we decided to head over to the Night Market at Ben Thanh Market and see what the food carts were offering. We kept our eye out for Donnar kababs, but the cart had already shut down, so we opted for a row of restaurants that sold various soups, beef stews and late night eats. We pulled up a plastic seat and quickly yelled out our order to whomever cared. Light, tastey, quick and cheap - a good way to end our first full day back in Saigon.Oh and we also got our very dusty shoes shined while waiting for our food.

Scooter City

One things for sure - scooters rule the roads in Saigon. Everyone's done it, right before arriving in Saigon everyone says they will rent a scooter and head out onto the streets of Saigon. That is until they actually get into the city and realize a $1 taxi ride would be better. This unique scooter society provides hours of endless entertainment, whether on the back of a xe om (scooter hug taxi) or gazing out at the chaotic flow of traffic from a rooftop bar while sipping refreshing coffee drinks.Upon our return to Saigon we immediately noticed the increase in cars on the road, while there are still crazy numbers of scooters everywhere, the number of cars has increased and so has our fear to cross the road. There is only one rule to crossing a Saigon road - never change direction mid-walk, ALWAYS keep going the direction you were headed, the scooters will maneuver around you.

Cars paid the same amount of attention to traffic signals and laws that the scooters do, that is not at all. They would make u-turns in the middle of traffic, head right into oncoming traffic because they wanted to turn at the next street and pull up dangerously close to pedestrians simply it seemed because 'honk, honk' I'm in a car!

Vietnam taxis are super cheap and use the meters everytime, so catching a taxi to take us less than 10 blocks was perfectly reasonable in the midafternoon heat, and for around $1, well worth it! We would sit in horror as our taxi driver would veer right into oncoming traffic, start backing up on a fully packed road or honk our way down a narrow alley looking for an elusive restaurant address. All this crazy driving with huge turnarounds, people driving up on sidewalks and ancient alleyways obviously not originally built for cars, all the while not one single curse word, not one hand raised in frustration or even an angry use of the horn. It's as if taxi drivers are given anti-anxiety pills right before starting their shifts.

Needless to say we still found ourselves playing the game who can see the highest number of people seen on a scooter (5 - two adults, one carrying a sleeping baby, a child standing on the floor board in front and one inbetween parent driving scooter and parent holding baby). Then it became a game of who could capture said photo.As quickly as that game was developed another one would start - what's the craziest thing being transported via scooter?This game could go on for years. There's even a book about it by Hans Kemp Beasts of Burden, an ode to the drivers and motorcycles of Vietnam, the backbone of the economy.

Glutton for More!

After a brutal 10 hour flight from Seattle to Seoul, South Korea with a very confusing transfer, then a quick 6 hour flight, we arrived in Saigon around 11pm. We quickly changed into shorts and t-shirts (it was probably like 80 degrees out around midnight). We were headed out to find Red Hot Wok where we heard they served the bastardized version of salted pepper squid that we have grown to love in the USA - battered, fried and full of garlicy salt and pepper!

One bite of this crunchy-savory entree makes us feel as if the execs at our local potato chip manufacturer Kettle Foods had this very item before coming up with the Salt and Fresh Black Pepper Chips.Initially we doubted our internet source as the streets leading up to Pasteur Avenue were dark and deserted, until we spotted the red tale-tell sign.

A short walk down an alleyway where a woman sat out front to tag scooters for parking as they rolled into the alleyway! Yes, we are definitely back baby to the land of scooters! YES!

At 1am the restaurant wasn't happening, but there were a few tables with people eating from clay pots and lots of cans of Saigon Beer lined the tables. We opened the menu and quickly became overwhelmed with all the offering so we opted for the squid and an order of the sauteed water spinach with garlic.

Most of our relatives in Vietnam refuse to eat water spinach, considering it poor people's food. But man was this buttery version dynamite! Exactly the soul comforting food to remind us we are back and ready for more!

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!

We're back after a whirlwind 2 weeks in Vietnam celebrating the Tet New Year - Goodbye Year of the Ox and Hello Year of the Tiger! We're decompressing, because it was a whirlwind! Hitting up as many of our favorite spots and checking out new ones. Pictures, stories, and yes more food related drooling to come!

The year of the Tiger represents bravery and tenacity. Last year's zodiac, year of the Ox, represented hard work. Because we know how hard those oxen work! And this year there was a lot of talk about how everyone will have to be tenacious when it comes to what they want in the upcoming year. Here's to another great year that looks to be as powerful and wild as the Tiger represents!

Friday, February 5, 2010

Saigon Shout Out!

Have we mentioned how much we love Saigon, Vietnam? It is easily one of our favorite cities in the world, and when we found this YouTube video of Saigon Miniture City Time Lapse - Tilt Shift made in 2007 by a Our Man in Hanoi, we honestly teared up.

Saigon does that to you. It's as if the video was made to capture our favorite memories and places in Saigon:

The bus stop where we first set foot in this amazing city

The vendors putting up umbrellas at Ben Thanh Market in preparation for the night market

The tropical park in front of the Opera House where people gather at dusk/dawn to do group tai chi

The Scooters

The murky Saigon River full of life

The New World Hotel

The crazy muli-lane turnarounds

Reunification Palace with it's treelined avenues

Close up of the Rex Hotel where Mike proposed

The Notre Dame Cathedral

Saigon isn't the most beautiful city in the world. Unlike other cities (European ones come to mind) the buildings and city itself are not the attraction, it's the people - full of life, humor, and purpose. What other city could make riding around on a scooter a daily evening event! We can't express enough how much we love Saigon and can't wait to go back for more!