Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Home Cooked Meals

With Tet New Year's Eve near not many businesses were open, but honestly we didn't even notice. For one, everything is literally only a scooter ride away. Batteries? Bam! Scooter ride away. Superglue? Bam! Scooter ride away. Beer? Bam! Scooter ride away. Baguettes? Bam! Scooter ride away....you get the picture. It was as if you asked for something and go brush your hair and bam! There it was.

Meals were very simple, fresh, eaten together and at a leisurely pace. It was wonderfully relaxing.After not being able to find something good to eat in the market for breakfast, the next morning we decided on a simple breakfast of crispy pork and threaded rice noodles.Served at room temperature, the crispy skin pork was salty and fatty, matching well with chewy, light & cool noodles. So simple and refreshing.Just grab a bowl and pile up the fixing, creating your perfect bite each time.And of course we were spoiled with a dinner of Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa, a specialty cured and grilled pork. With all the fixings for personalized rolls.We were even treated to leftovers from our Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa meal a couple of days later. Just grilled up, complete with char marks to add fatty smokey flavor.Shrimp used for the rolls were wrapped in rice paper with a bunch of chives and deep fried. Along with these tasty bites, our aunt made a delicious stewed pork, carmalized in sweet soy sauce and served with a hard boiled duck egg that was creamier than any chicken egg we've ever had. And to lighten the meal up - spare rib soup with carrots and potatoes. Seriously good. And again, so simple and memorable with unbelievable tender pork in a tangy broth studded with perfectly cooked carrots and potatoes which have soaked up just enough of the tangy broth, but still have a starchy bite to them.So far the meals we have eaten have been comfort home cooking dishes and not much special foods made/eaten during Tet. That's until New Year's Eve Day we were treated to sticky rice rolled in a banana leaf filled with rice, salty pork and yellow beans. Our favorite way to eat them is fried, so the rice melts together, like the cheese on a grilled cheese sandwich, but the rice on the outside remains crispy holding everything together.The starchy rice with just a little bit of salty pork and creamy sweet yellow bean goes excellently with sour crunchy pickled items.We were warned not to fill up on the sticky rice because New Year's Day (Tet) would mean a vegetarian meals with more vegetarian sticky rice. Other vegetarian dishes during our down-to-earth celebration included fermented tofu with soy sauce and lemon grass. Mainly for refresher between bites and added texture.There was a stir fried green beans, mushrooms, and tofu dish. The vegetables and tofu was light and refreshing and had enough bite to them, but tasted oily and of each other's subtle favor from the stir frying.And a vegetarian soup with broccoli, carrots, and clear rice noodles that had just enough spice to it to add an extra kick to the crunchy vegetables.And to add a little filler due to the lack of meat, our little cousins quickly fried up some battered cauliflower with a little tumeric in the coating to add another interesting flavor the dish.And because there never is a truly vegetarian meal when there are guests, a Vietnamese style cold cut plate was provided. A pressed pork patty topped with sauteed tomatoes and onions and garnished with cilantro and various herbs.And of course cold vegetables or greens, used mainly to cleanse your palette and prepare your mouth for another salty, bitter, sweet, spicy, sour, crunchy, soft, chewy bite.This visit we did have one meal that was fairly unique and new to us - fresh seafood steamed right on the beach. Including the creepy looking mantas shrimp, which are rarely served in the US.And steamed snails, a national obsession in Vietnam due to the sweet, tender, sea tasting morsels that makes the amount of effort needed to pry the meat from the shell questionable if its worth it.That is until someone has meticulously done it for you and stir fried it in green onions, garlic and chilis. Done this way the tender salty snail meat mixed well and added texture to the pungent onions, garlic and chilis. We greedily topped our wonderfully cooked chao (porridge) with the snail mixture for a seriously dynamite dish. The salty and pungent flavors, coupled with the soft cooked green onions and steamed snail meat added extra kick to the thick rice porridge that was heavy in black pepper and fresh ginger. Our bellies never had it so good.

Monday, March 29, 2010

New Year Markets and the Shutting Down of Towns

As mentioned in an earlier post, families will forgo the possibility of making double the income during Tet New Year in order to spend time with families, especially those who can only afford to go home once or twice a year. New Years is a sacred and special time of year for all of Vietnamese. It truly is a universal celebration among all regardless of religion or economics. Shop owners will close up shop for up to a month to travel home to celebrate with their families. For those visiting Vietnam during Tet New Year it means double the price for everything, all the while there aren't many places to spend that hard earned cash, especially in small villages like Ninh Hoa.

So for our first full day in Ninh Hoa we wanted to head out to the market for some breakfast, but quickly found that while there seemed an appearance of a busy typical day at the open market many vendors weren't operating and finding a nice breakfast was going to be more challenging than expected. Everyone is ready to make a buck right? Not so during Tet New Year it turns out.

There were plenty of vendors selling typical marketing items, but we were wanting some breakfast.We wandering around the marketing hoping to find some specialty New Year's Food prepared and sold only during Tet.We soon realized foreigners are extremely rare in Ninh Hoa, so after being harrassed for money we soon spotted a section of vendors selling Vietnamese desserts Che and Banh Xeo Crepes and decided this was going to be as good as it gets. So we pulled up plastic chairs and ordered up some grub.While not extraordinary in anyway, the fresh crispy crepes and refreshing che desserts satisfied our hunger pangs and at a little less than $5 for all of us to eat until we didn't want anymore was fine with us. The hive of activity is a lot to take in and to be able to sit down and people watch verses wandering around hungry while old woman begging followed us made the pitstop worth it.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Ninh Hoa Neighbors

We're back in Ninh Hoa, Vietnam. This time for Tet New Year. We've brought a crowd and we're staying with crazy Uncle Seven.

We couldn't have asked for a better host. He was our constant alarm clock, concierge and party instigator. He sure loves a good time.Uncle Seven's house is a lot more "modern" than grandma's house with a westernize toilet that flushed (sometimes), bedrooms, a living room and off the main street surrounded by rice fields. It was nice and quiet.Ninh Hoa is a picturesque vietnamese village where life moves at a much slower pace. That is unless you live in the house directly behind Uncle Seven's house.Every morning we would get up as the sun was rising along with the sounds of roosters crowing. We each would take a quick cold shower, brush our teeth and basically get ready for the day to the throbbing sounds of techno music blaring out from the neighbor's house.

We were so thrown back by this tiny house just cranking the techno music that we thought it must be a pool hall or something along those lines. But no, the neighbors just like to get ready for the day with loud techno music.

Now when traveling with technology/audio geeks, and we mean that in the nicest way, the benefit of reliving moments caught by video and sound recording can be priceless.Below is a time lapse video, complete with a sound recording (so use those speakers!) of what we heard every morning. Something we will not soon forget.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Technical Difficulties

You would think with all this computing power blog posts would come easy. Yes, there's three laptops, an external hard drive, Zune, iPod, webcam, walkie talkie and two flasks. Well, we're trying to get fancy and include a piece of video for everyone to enjoy. But finding the time to sync and upload is alot more difficult than we initially thought. Especially now that spring has hit the Northwest and we're itching to get outside! More interesting posts to come, just hang in there.

With a little bit of help we'll get back here real soon.

Us infront of large white Buddha at the Marble Mountains in DaNang

Friday, March 5, 2010

Vietnam Roadtrip

Can you tell why we look so happy? It has nothing to do with the ocean sunset behind us. We were all just really happy to be let out like a pack of wild dogs from a cramped, overloaded and in serious need of some basic maintenance Mercedez mini-van!

At almost exactly noon, we boarded a rented 16-seat-mini-van and was looking forward to a six-hour ride along Vietnam's long stretch of coast. The road scenery in Vietnam is interesting, but after only 3 hours we were already over it and decided to pull over for some late lunch and stretch our legs.

As with most developing countries, selling food is the simplest means of making money and all along our drive up the coast we could see little carts and impromptu roadside dining (a lady with two baskets; one basket with cooking elements and ingredients and one basket with bowls, chopsticks, spoons, condiments, etc.; plastic chairs and table - voila instant cafe!). Many places had hammocks strung up in between tables in shaded areas. But surprisingly enough there are also huge dining emporiums, where bus loads of people at a time stop off for bathroom breaks, snacks and full meals. In between the buzz of the barely working air conditioning we could hear Mom repeating the name of the dining emporium she wanted to stop at. And there it was...very impressive for a roadside food emporium in the middle of what looked like rubber tree plantations and the ocean.Looking like obvious tourists we were ushered into the air conditioned room, where as everyone else was seated outside in the pleasant sunny dining area. And as quickly as we all headed off to the bathrooms we could hear Great Uncle Nine ask, "this isn't going to cost any more is it, we aren't paying for the air conditioning with this meal are we?" No, we were assured, but maybe we'd be paying extra for the crazy koi pond we had to walk past to get to the bathrooms.We had a terrific lunch of seafood and beef hotpot and stewed fish. This is what a traveler's meal should consist of. Tasty, fresh and light, we felt revived and ready for what we thought was only another 3 hours until Ninh Hoa.

We all quickly went into food coma and slept the rest of the way until we were awaken with the sound of Mom asking if we were hungry and want to stop for dinner. No, no need to stop we'll eat at Grandma's when we get there. Well....

It seems we had only reached the half way point due to the weight of our luggage and the driver not wanting to blow the vehicle's struts and shocks so he was going at a much slower pace. Visions of the same roadtrip back in 1997 before foreign investment flooded the country and the roads were vastly improved came flooding into our minds and immediately we asked to be let out! Fortunately the sun was setting and the restaurant where we decided to stop for dinner had a balcony and a great view of the ocean.Directly across from the pitstop was a hillside pagoda that we stopped off and took photos of back in 1997 (if you click on the photo you can see a walled stairway snacking up the hill to the pagoda). But this time we just stood across the street taking pictures, in complete denial/semi-disgust after being informed we had yet another 6-hours to go!The restaurant was completely empty besides us. Seems everyone was getting prepared for the Tet New Year. It was comforting to see that Vietnam does view family over financial. When staying open during Tet New Year could make you the same amount of money as the rest of the year combined, family run businesses simply prefer to be with family. We each ordered our own meal because the kitchen had limited choices and back onto the mini-bus, without one photo of our dinner taken!

In the next six hours we endured cramped and broken seating, car sickness vomiting, constant honking and rough roads. But with the help of Flight of the Conchords, Zunes, iPods, videogames, books and the knowledge that we'd soon see the following made the last roadtrip I'll ever take in Vietnam that more bearable.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Traveler's Dilemna

Tin Guts here, wanting to discuss a traveler's dilemna that was brought to my attention today by an article in Jezebel. Bravely written by their new executive editor, it explores readers' remedies for traveler's constipation. Here's the link to the article. This quickly prompted a blog post because shockingly this has been an issue everytime we travel. One might think going to a third world country would mean issues with diarrhea and dysentery and the travel clinics would also assume these would be the biggest issues for travelers. But we are here to let you know that is far from the truth. The worst part is it's easy to get a prescription for anti-diarrhea medication, but what to do if the opposite happens? Well I like to jump for joy and declare that I don't care if I don't poop the whole time we're here, but sometimes your body takes over, what can I say?

The the readers' suggestions range from common sense (prunes and castor oil) to rather strange (French chewing gum), but we came up some suggestions of our own because nothing can ruin a perfectly good day of sightseeing than Deuces Wild!

First, drink as much water on the flight over to give yourself a good start to your vacation. If that means fighting for the aisle seat, let the battle begin.Second, don't go overboard with the in-flight beverages, especially the free beer and wine on international flights! Do like we did, pack it and wait until you get there to enjoy that frosty beverage.Third, avoid eating anything and everything offered on the flight. We flew Asiana Air and Korean food is delicious, we were even given the option of western or traditional meals.So bring your own snacks, like fruit leathers, crackers and the all important breath mints. It will save you money and won't let you go overboard with the snacks they hand out to keep from being bored.

Fourth, get plenty of sleep during the flight.Many experts say traveler's constipation can be caused by jet lag, especially if you're going to jump over the international date line and you suddenly find yourself fast forwarding a full day! What's your body to think when it's rhythm you worked so hard to maintain is lost?

And lastly always travel with anti-diarrhea medications (just in case), chewable pepto-bismols (for those spontaneous offers you just can't pass up, even if it looks really dodgey) and pack plenty of laxative teas (all you need is a little hot water and you're on your way!)